Difference between revisions of "Installing an Axis P3374/P3375 with a Shure MX202i Microphone"

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(Connecting the STM-)
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#Using the drill bit, drill the 2 screw markers and place the anchors inside. Using the hole saw (recommended size 2” inches or less), drill a hole into the area where cables would come through.  
 
#Using the drill bit, drill the 2 screw markers and place the anchors inside. Using the hole saw (recommended size 2” inches or less), drill a hole into the area where cables would come through.  
 
#Above drop ceiling, locate the network drop. IF it is on a biscuit, you will need the patch cable. If there is an RJ-45 at the end of the drop, the patch cable won’t be needed. Using the hole saw, drill a hole above the drop ceiling in line with the hole drilled where the camera will be mounted. If there isn’t any drywall above the ceiling, adjust accordingly to your circumstance.
 
#Above drop ceiling, locate the network drop. IF it is on a biscuit, you will need the patch cable. If there is an RJ-45 at the end of the drop, the patch cable won’t be needed. Using the hole saw, drill a hole above the drop ceiling in line with the hole drilled where the camera will be mounted. If there isn’t any drywall above the ceiling, adjust accordingly to your circumstance.
#Using your glow rod or fish tape, fish the network drop and a section of 22/2 audio cable up the drywall. The section of audio cable should be long enough to reach the destination where the Shure MX202i microphone will be mounted in your drop ceiling. This cable will be for your microphone. (If using 2 microphones, run 2 cables).
+
#Using your glow rod or fish tape, fish the network drop and 2 sections of 22/2 audio cable down the drywall. The sections of cable should be long enough to reach the destination where the STM-1 preamp microphone will be mounted in your drop ceiling. One cable will be for audio; the other will be to power the STM-1.
#Mount the Axis P3374/3375 base to the wall using the screws associated with the anchors.Run your network drop and audio cable through the hole on the wall.
+
#Mount the Axis P3364/3365 base to the wall using the screws associated with the anchors.  
 
+
#Strip the jacket off the 22/2, revealing the red, black, and common (bare wires) on both cables. Remove the string and plastic casings covering the red and black cables. Strip the red and black jackets off the wire exposing the copper. Cut copper evenly. On the cable we ran for power, remove the common (bare wire) completely.
#Cut 2 additional pieces of 22/2 cable approximately 4 inches long. Strip the jacket off the 22/2, revealing the red, black, and common (bare wire) on both sides of the cable. Remove the string and plastic casings covering the red and black cables. Strip the red and black jackets off the wire exposing the copper. Cut copper evenly on both ends (See picture). On the two 4 inch cables, remove the common (bare wire) completely.  
+
#Cut a 3.5 mm audio cable in half. Strip about an inch of the black jacket; then strip about 1/2 inch of red and white strand jacket. Test the 3.5 cable for polarity (touch one end of the cable tester to the tip of the 3.5 jack and the other end to the red and white wires. This will be the positive wire; the middle section of the 3.5 jack is negative wire; the bottom section of the jack is ground/stranded wire.) Splice these wires with the camera end of the 22/2 cable we just ran for audio.
 +
#Connect the power cable to the IO phoenix connector (Red to 2, Black to 1).
 +
#Plug in the network drop to the PoE NIC, the 3.5 jack into the pink AUDIO IN port on the camera, and the IO phoenix connector to the IO port.  
 
#:[[File:Cut_Audio_Cable.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:Cut_Audio_Cable.JPG|400x300px]]
#You will also need to cut another shorter piece of 22/2 cable (approx. 1 inch). Strip the jacked and from the cable and remove all contents keeping only the red cable. On both ends of the red cable, strip off a piece of the jacked (See picture).
+
#You will also need to cut another shorter piece of 22/2 cable (approx. 1 inch). Strip the jacket from the cable and remove all contents keeping only the red cable. On both ends of the red cable, strip off a piece of the jacket (See picture).
 
#:[[File:Phantom Power Jumper.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:Phantom Power Jumper.JPG|400x300px]]
  
==Connecting the STM-==
+
==Connecting the STM-1==
  
#Connect one end of the 1 inch audio cable to the +PWR terminal and connect the other end of that into the +PHNTM terminal.
+
#Connect one end of the 1 inch audio cable to the +PWR terminal and connect the other end into the +PHNTM terminal.
 
#:[[File:Phantom PWR STM.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:Phantom PWR STM.JPG|400x300px]]
#Connect one of the 4 inch cables to both PWR terminals (Red to +, Black to the other terminal) of the STM-1. Connect the other side to the IO phoenix connector (Red to 2, Black to 1).
+
#Connect the other end of the 22/2 we ran for power to the PWR terminals (Red to +, Black to the other terminal) of the STM-1.  
 
#:[[File:STM_Powered_Connected.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:STM_Powered_Connected.JPG|400x300px]]
#Connect the second of the 4 inch cables to both HI-Z OUTPUT terminals (Red to +, Black to the other terminal) of the STM-1. Connect the other side to spliced 3.5mm audio cable.
+
#Connect the cable we ran for audio to the LO-Z OUTPUT terminals (Red to +, Black to -, ground/strand to the other terminal) of the STM-1.  
#Connect the audio cable that is intended for your microphone to the input terminals of the STM-1 (Red to +, Black to -, Common to the common terminal). Using the Velcro that comes with the STM-1, attach the STM-1 to the wall above drop ceiling hidden from sight..
+
#We will need another length of 22/2 cable intended for your microphone; connect it to the input terminals of the STM-1 (Red to +, Black to -, ground to the ground terminal). Using the Velcro that comes with the STM-1, attach the STM-1 to the wall above drop ceiling hidden from sight.
(NOTE; If there are 2 cameras in the room, duplitcate steps using a long enough cable to get to the 2nd camera. If there are 2 Shure MX202i Microphones, duplicate steps.)
+
(NOTE; If there are 2 cameras in the room, duplicate these steps to get to the 2nd camera. LO-Z output can feed 2 cameras, but no more. If there are 2 Shure MX202i Microphones, duplicate steps. An STM-1 can power and gather audio from 2 Shure 202i mics.)
  
 
==Connecting and Mounting the Microphone==
 
==Connecting and Mounting the Microphone==
  
#Strip the jacket of the XLR pigtail revealing the red, black and common cables inside. Strip away a portion of the red and black cables inside the pigtail, revealing the copper wire inside. At the end of your 22/2 cable (not connected to the STM-1), twist the wires together with the pigtail (red to red, black to black, common to common). Secure these with B-Connectors (See Pictures). Repeat this process for 2 microphones.
+
#Strip the jacket of the XLR pigtail revealing the red, black and common (silver) cables inside. Strip away a portion of the red and black cables inside the pigtail, revealing the copper wire inside. (This is typically already done before shipment from the office.) At the end of the 22/2 cable (connected to the STM-1 input), twist the wires together with the pigtail (red to red, black to black, common to common). Secure these with B-Connectors (See Pictures). Repeat this process if necessary for 2 microphones.
 
#:[[File:Audio spliced with pigtail.JPG|400x300px]] [[File:Pigtail_Splice_with_B_Connectors.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:Audio spliced with pigtail.JPG|400x300px]] [[File:Pigtail_Splice_with_B_Connectors.JPG|400x300px]]
#Using the ½”paddle bit, drill a hole into the center of the single gang plate and a hole into the desired location for the microphone on your drop ceiling tile. Then secure this single gang plate to the desired location of the microphone on your drop ceiling tile using a pair of toggle bolts. Repeat this process for 2 microphones.
+
#Using the ½” paddle bit, drill a hole into the center of the single gang plate and a hole into the desired location for the microphone on your drop ceiling tile. Then secure this single gang plate to the desired location of the microphone on your drop ceiling tile using a pair of toggle bolts. Repeat this process for 2 microphones.
 
#:[[File:Plate_Mounted_to_Ceiling.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:Plate_Mounted_to_Ceiling.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#Run your MX202i through the ½” hole in the ceiling tile and single gang plate.  Connect the 4 Pin XLR-F end of the MX202i to the 4 pin XLR-M adapter. Next, connect the XLR-F (that is ran back to the STM-1) to the XLR-M of the adapter. Lastly, use the rubber stopper to plug the ½” hole in the single gang plate.
 
#Run your MX202i through the ½” hole in the ceiling tile and single gang plate.  Connect the 4 Pin XLR-F end of the MX202i to the 4 pin XLR-M adapter. Next, connect the XLR-F (that is ran back to the STM-1) to the XLR-M of the adapter. Lastly, use the rubber stopper to plug the ½” hole in the single gang plate.
#Lastly, adjust the length of the cable of the microphone to your desired length, hiding the remainder in the ceiling. Attach the windscreen to the MX202i.
+
#Lastly, adjust the length of the cable of the microphone to your desired length, hiding the remainder in the ceiling near the STM-1. Attach the windscreen to the MX202i.
 
#:[[File:Mic hanging from ceiling.JPG|400x300px]]
 
#:[[File:Mic hanging from ceiling.JPG|400x300px]]

Revision as of 16:19, 14 February 2019

Required Parts And Tools

  • Axis P3374 or P3375
    IMG 7051.JPG
  • RDL STM-1
    STM-1.JPG
  • XLR-F Pigtail
    PigTail.JPG
  • Shure MX202i Microphone
    MX202i.JPG
  • Starbit Security Driver
  • Wire Stripper
    Wire Stripper and Starbit Driver.JPG
  • Anchors and Screws
    Screws and Anchors.JPG
  • 1/2" paddle bit
  • 3.5mm Audio Cable
  • 1 blank single gang wall plate
    Blankplate.JPG
  • Toggle Bolts (If mounting to drop ceiling tile)
    Toggle Bolts.JPG
  • Drill bit and drill
    Drill and Brill Bits.JPG
  • Phillips head drill bit or Phillips head screwdriver
  • Small Flat head screwdriver
    Small Flathead Screwdriver.JPG
  • Hole Saw
    Hole Saw.jpg
  • B Connectors
    BCONN.png
  • Stud Finder
  • Cat5/6 Patch Cable (7ft-15ft recommended)
    Cat6 Patch Cable.JPG
  • 22/2 Gauge Wire
    Audio Cable.JPG
  • Fish Tape or Glow Rod
    15-4-57-m-mid-flex-glow-rod-set-tools-to-k56415-to-k56415-19671-228x228.jpg
  • Wind Screen (Inside MX202i Box)
    Mic Windscreen.JPG
  • Rubber Stopper (Inside MX202i Box)
    Mic Rubber.JPG
  • 4 pin XLR-M to XLR-M Adapter (Inside MX202i Box)
    Shure Adapter.JPG

Installation Instructions

  1. Locate the network drop that is ran back to the POE switch. (If the switch does not have POE, you will need to insert a POE injector back at the network closet).
  2. Remove the P3374/P3375 camera from its base with the starbit security driver. Using a stud finder, ensure there aren’t any studs any behind the camera base. Using a marker or pen, mark the 2 areas on the wall where the screws would be and also mark the opening where the any cabling would come through
  3. Using the drill bit, drill the 2 screw markers and place the anchors inside. Using the hole saw (recommended size 2” inches or less), drill a hole into the area where cables would come through.
  4. Above drop ceiling, locate the network drop. IF it is on a biscuit, you will need the patch cable. If there is an RJ-45 at the end of the drop, the patch cable won’t be needed. Using the hole saw, drill a hole above the drop ceiling in line with the hole drilled where the camera will be mounted. If there isn’t any drywall above the ceiling, adjust accordingly to your circumstance.
  5. Using your glow rod or fish tape, fish the network drop and 2 sections of 22/2 audio cable down the drywall. The sections of cable should be long enough to reach the destination where the STM-1 preamp microphone will be mounted in your drop ceiling. One cable will be for audio; the other will be to power the STM-1.
  6. Mount the Axis P3364/3365 base to the wall using the screws associated with the anchors.
  7. Strip the jacket off the 22/2, revealing the red, black, and common (bare wires) on both cables. Remove the string and plastic casings covering the red and black cables. Strip the red and black jackets off the wire exposing the copper. Cut copper evenly. On the cable we ran for power, remove the common (bare wire) completely.
  8. Cut a 3.5 mm audio cable in half. Strip about an inch of the black jacket; then strip about 1/2 inch of red and white strand jacket. Test the 3.5 cable for polarity (touch one end of the cable tester to the tip of the 3.5 jack and the other end to the red and white wires. This will be the positive wire; the middle section of the 3.5 jack is negative wire; the bottom section of the jack is ground/stranded wire.) Splice these wires with the camera end of the 22/2 cable we just ran for audio.
  9. Connect the power cable to the IO phoenix connector (Red to 2, Black to 1).
  10. Plug in the network drop to the PoE NIC, the 3.5 jack into the pink AUDIO IN port on the camera, and the IO phoenix connector to the IO port.
    Cut Audio Cable.JPG
  11. You will also need to cut another shorter piece of 22/2 cable (approx. 1 inch). Strip the jacket from the cable and remove all contents keeping only the red cable. On both ends of the red cable, strip off a piece of the jacket (See picture).
    Phantom Power Jumper.JPG

Connecting the STM-1

  1. Connect one end of the 1 inch audio cable to the +PWR terminal and connect the other end into the +PHNTM terminal.
    Phantom PWR STM.JPG
  2. Connect the other end of the 22/2 we ran for power to the PWR terminals (Red to +, Black to the other terminal) of the STM-1.
    STM Powered Connected.JPG
  3. Connect the cable we ran for audio to the LO-Z OUTPUT terminals (Red to +, Black to -, ground/strand to the other terminal) of the STM-1.
  4. We will need another length of 22/2 cable intended for your microphone; connect it to the input terminals of the STM-1 (Red to +, Black to -, ground to the ground terminal). Using the Velcro that comes with the STM-1, attach the STM-1 to the wall above drop ceiling hidden from sight.

(NOTE; If there are 2 cameras in the room, duplicate these steps to get to the 2nd camera. LO-Z output can feed 2 cameras, but no more. If there are 2 Shure MX202i Microphones, duplicate steps. An STM-1 can power and gather audio from 2 Shure 202i mics.)

Connecting and Mounting the Microphone

  1. Strip the jacket of the XLR pigtail revealing the red, black and common (silver) cables inside. Strip away a portion of the red and black cables inside the pigtail, revealing the copper wire inside. (This is typically already done before shipment from the office.) At the end of the 22/2 cable (connected to the STM-1 input), twist the wires together with the pigtail (red to red, black to black, common to common). Secure these with B-Connectors (See Pictures). Repeat this process if necessary for 2 microphones.
    Audio spliced with pigtail.JPG Pigtail Splice with B Connectors.JPG
  2. Using the ½” paddle bit, drill a hole into the center of the single gang plate and a hole into the desired location for the microphone on your drop ceiling tile. Then secure this single gang plate to the desired location of the microphone on your drop ceiling tile using a pair of toggle bolts. Repeat this process for 2 microphones.
    Plate Mounted to Ceiling.JPG
  3. Run your MX202i through the ½” hole in the ceiling tile and single gang plate. Connect the 4 Pin XLR-F end of the MX202i to the 4 pin XLR-M adapter. Next, connect the XLR-F (that is ran back to the STM-1) to the XLR-M of the adapter. Lastly, use the rubber stopper to plug the ½” hole in the single gang plate.
  4. Lastly, adjust the length of the cable of the microphone to your desired length, hiding the remainder in the ceiling near the STM-1. Attach the windscreen to the MX202i.
    Mic hanging from ceiling.JPG